Jonathan Cohen has a new gig. The New York designer has joined J. Mendel as its first resident designer, as the 156-year-old brand endeavors to make a comeback. He started in August.

Though the announcement comes just a day before New York Fashion Week kicks off, Cohen will show his first collection for the brand with a runway show in October in New York. He will work at J. Mendel alongside his eponymous label, at which he recently revamped his operating model into a two-tier system: Jonathan Cohen White Label (a seasonless core collection that drops eight times a year) and Jonathan Cohen Black Label (made-to-order specialty pieces).

At J. Mendel, Cohen will be tasked with reviving a longtime New York atelier, known for its glossy evening gowns and extravagant furs. J. Mendel was previously designed by fifth-generation designer Gilles Mendel, who now helms the couture and bridal brand House of Gilles.

J. Mendel filed for bankruptcy in 2018, after which minority investor Stallion Inc. acquired a majority stake in the business. After the bankruptcy, Mendel continued to design collections for the brand, through Fall/Winter 2020, plus an additional FW22 collection of J. Mendel knitwear. Cohen, known for his colorful hand-drawn prints and statement silhouettes, is sure to bring a fresh spin to the heritage house come October.

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