Yigal Azrouël doesn’t need to look around him for inspiration; there will never be a roadmap featuring photos of art or landscapes or veteran style icons that guide him. “For me, inspiration is something that I feel,” the designer said in his SoHo store. “It’s come from within me.”

But what you see isn’t always what you get with Azrouël’s designs, and you should really see them—and touch them—because Azrouël’s cleverness shines through in the way he plays with fabric. A trench coat is deceptively light because it’s made of Italian silk or paper-thin leather, while a collegiate quarter-zip is fashioned in heavy-duty leather instead of cashmere or wool, and an entire dress is made with just one well-placed piece of silk.

Speaking of which, Azrouël’s occasionwear was a season highlight. (He admits that many of his pieces don’t have hanger appeal, but those are usually the ones that come alive on the body.) While he tends to stick to neutrals, the designer ventured into bold hues for spring 2027 with a series of sexy maxidresses. A vibrant tomato red gown hung off of a gold chain while a cantaloupe long-sleeve got some major sex appeal with a cowl-neck and thigh-high slit.

Despite serving up some femme fatale dresses, Azrouël reliably injected plenty of masculinity: a drop-waist screen-printed silk jumpsuit with rigid shoulder pads, boyish below-the-knee jean shorts, and plenty of shirting. The best moments, of course, came when he blended his brand of slinky with masculine edge. Sometimes, there’s nothing better than a draped top with a tough leather jacket and a great pair of jeans.