If there’s a difference between a power suit and a suit that makes you feel powerful, Brioni knows exactly where it lies. The brand is not defining its identity through clothes designed simply to project authority. Instead, stitch by stitch, it is carving out its place in women’s tailoring by creating clothes that make the women who wear them feel powerful. The La Donna Atelier spring 2027 collection was not particularly extensive, but Brioni’s women’s Su Misura project offers a personalized expression of the collection through a wide selection of fabrics, linings, buttons, monogrammed details and embroidery. The possibilities for combinations are therefore virtually endless.

While women can build a Brioni wardrobe that reflects their own style and sensibility, the brand’s sartorial heritage remains unmistakable, whether expressed through a more relaxed, everyday or evening wardrobe. The Jardigan—a deconstructed jacket with the soft, fluid feel of a cardigan—was introduced into the men’s wardrobe in 1955. This season, cinched at the waist with a belt it took on a fluid, subtly androgynous femininity. Shirts were designed with a pragmatic versatility in mind, to be worn as overshirts, layered beneath a jacket or allowed to take centre stage. The introduction of leather, in suede and nubuck, brought a more tactile and assertive dimension to the womenswear. A manifesto for the value of bespoke craftsmanship, one jacket was entirely crafted from silver thread in a herringbone weave and embellished with three-dimensional crystal embroidery, painstakingly hand-applied by the brand’s artisans.

Rosso Roma, in the shades of light that warm the city at sunset, is one of the most recognizable elements of Brioni’s aesthetic, alongside a white inspired by Rome’s marble columns. Bringing harmony to the palette this time was powder blue, rendered in luminous silks with a metallic sheen. New to the collection were women’s cufflinks in three versions—knot, buttonhole and trama, the latter recalling the pattern of Rome’s sampietrini cobblestones. At Brioni, they understand the importance of details.