In the show’s final chapter, Cathy becomes Kate.

With Faye, Cathy plays the innocent country girl, but that look quickly develops into these elaborate brothel gowns which she uses to fit in. She fits in with these girls and then she rises above them to the top.

As Kate, [once she’s in charge], she exercises a kind of self-branding. Zoe even talked a little bit about Patti Smith—this sense of someone who’s created their own image which is so recognizable. Kate likes a cleaner, more elegant line, less decoration, and a more edited, sophisticated aesthetic. And she loves the dramatic. This was, perhaps, her chance to be who she’d always wanted to be, but never had the capacity. It’s her own performance, as opposed to performing for somebody else. It’s also a uniform and the palette is severe, but there’s variety to it and texture, and Florence wanted it to be really sexy. She also loved the idea that Kate collected all of these mementos from men, so those are on her body as well as being next to her bed and on her desk. And then, of course, all the girls at Kate’s wear all black, too.